TAQUERIA MI RANCHO (840 Hull Road, 706-540-7796, @taqueria.mi.rancho): Even if you think Athens has too many Mexican restaurants—and I’m still not sure that’s possible—here’s one you should make an exception for. Operating out of a convenience store attached to the Marathon gas station across from the Space Kroger on Hull Road, Taqueria Mi Rancho is a focused delight, operated by a family that used to cook out at the J&J Flea Market. Many years ago, I had their pollo a la braza, a phenomenal marinated then grilled chicken on the bone, and I’ve been chasing it ever since. Return visits to the flea market showed it wasn’t there anymore, and I was bummed, but here it is again, cooked by the same folks in the same way and just as delicious as I remembered.
The chicken is available as a quarter, a half or a whole, hacked through the bone into big chunks after being grilled whole to char the skin beautifully, and served with rice, deeply flavored beans that are basically a soup and homemade tortillas. I’d advise tearing off a piece of tortilla, dragging it through the beans, then grabbing up some rice and some chicken before stuffing the whole thing messily into your mouth. (Apologies to my vegetarian readers: There is not a lot for you here.) The chicken is only served on the weekend, so plan ahead, but the restaurant is open every day.
The rest of the menu is good, too. Order at the counter, pay at the register, then bring your stamped receipt back to get your food and grab a seat at one of the tables for the freshest experience. Mi Rancho focuses on Michoacán cuisine, so carnitas are a point of emphasis, prepared either with or without the pork skin (I’d recommend with, and the dude at the counter responds to that order with “good choice”). Part chewy, part tender, full of flavor, you can get them in/on a taco, a huarache, a gordita, a quesadilla, some sopes, a burrito, a torta or just as a plate, where they shine. The al pastor is a standout, too, with slivers of pineapple incorporated throughout, dissolving into the dish and suffusing it with flavor. If the staff asks if you want grilled onions, don’t say no. They’re a treat.
The restaurant also does breakfast all day, with burritos, plates and light, floppy tortas filled with scrambled eggs, chorizo (or bacon or ham or just eggs) and cheese. Don’t skip the accoutrements bar, which features two green salsas (one tomatillo focused, the other creamy with avocado), one smokier choice and a zingy habanero sauce, pico de gallo, sliced radishes, limes, cilantro, chopped onions and a container of sliced white onions pickled with raw hunks of habanero (hot as hell but delicious enough to keep you going back to clear out your sinuses).
Taqueria Mi Rancho is open 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Monday and Wednesday through Friday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Tuesday and Sunday, 9 a.m.–8 p.m. Saturday.
TAMEZ BBQ (2131 Hog Mountain Road, in Watkinsville, 706-705-6898, tamezbbq.com): When the much loved, mostly drive-through Texas barbecue joint that makes the best tortillas in town opened a second location in Watkinsville, the question was whether the charm and the food would translate, or would the owners find themselves spread too thin? Hooray! It translates! You’ll now get your brisket, which may now be the only real game in town with the closing of Pulaski Heights BBQ, with a side of country music, which plays on the TVs throughout the dining room (mostly 1990s and 2000s, so moderately classic). Said dining room is decorated with an abundance of steer-themed stuff, but don’t mistake it for a Longhorns hangout: There’s a UGA football shrine in the back that takes up a whole wall, with framed newspaper clippings and lit candles. The food is as good as at the original location, and although the strip mall location in front of Publix and next to Costa Alegre is a touch less charming, it’s nice to be able to grab a seat, enjoy some a/c, watch a soccer game or play some bingo (Wednesday nights, when kids eat half price).
Watch @tamezbarbecue on Instagram for specials, which include not only Taco Tuesday but also Thursday night deals. The restaurant is open 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m.–3 p.m. Sunday.
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