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Grub Notes

Athens Bagel Co. Returns and More Food News

ATHENS BAGEL CO. (268 N. Jackson St., 706-543-5001): Sometimes, when you wish upon a star, and you really want something, your wish is granted. Not frequently. I can probably count on one hand the number of places I and many others have deeply wished would reopen, and then they actually did, but just because something is unlikely doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen. All this is to say that, after years of COVID closure, renovations, contractor difficulties and historic preservation issues, Athens Bagel Co. really did open back up downtown in its original location, and (maybe just as important) it’s still good. 

When it first started service, you couldn’t even go inside. You just had to walk up to the window and wait on the sidewalk to be handed a bag. No matter. There was a line almost immediately. Now the inside is open, too, so you can have a breakfast or a lunch unimpeded by the elements. 

The menu remains simple and gluten-focused, the way it should be. “Plain” is usually my go-to to assess a place, but in this case you should pick something with more pizzazz: onion, sesame, poppyseed, salt, everything. It’ll add something welcome to the mix, whether you’re just getting a schmear or whether you’re opting for a sandwich. Wheat wraps are available for those who choose not to bagel. The default, I must warn you, is untoasted, so make sure you specify that you do, in fact, want your bagel warm and crusty, unless you are just getting a bag to take home. This should be an opt-out rather than an opt-in situation, but that’s why I’m calling your attention to it. 

The smoked fish is a bit better at Ideal Bagel, but ABC has the edge when it comes to gooey, meaty, cheesy bagel breakfast sandwiches. The Cannonball Run, made with Striplings’ sausage, veggie cream cheese and a runny egg, is a highlight. Make sure you get plenty of napkins and maybe a wet wipe, but it’s a really nicely balanced creation heavy on unctuousness: salt, fat, umami, chew, goo. On the other hand, the Phoenix, a veggie-forward combo of sauteed mushrooms, sliced avocado, egg and Swiss cheese, needs something to give it more punch. Chili crisp? A meltier cheese? Really what it’s missing is salt, because an avocado without that is too smooth and bland. “A Fortnight,” which uses pastrami, egg and muenster, also incorporates deli mustard, which gives it plenty of acid to wake up your tastebuds. You can assemble your own creation if you feel up to making decisions—bacon, sausage, ham, scrambled egg, runny egg, hard-cooked egg, egg whites, various cheeses, lots of different veggies—but I generally prefer to trust the kitchen. Food comes out speedily, and if you choose the to-go option, you can always walk down the street to picnic on UGA’s North Campus. 

Athens Bagel Co. is open 7 a.m.–3 p.m. Monday through Friday, 8 a.m.–3 p.m. on weekends, serving as a rare example of beating the odds.

PALOMA PARK (235 W Washington St., 706-850-7356): If it wasn’t clear when I reviewed Paloma Park more thoroughly, I found the restaurant aspect of the place surprisingly good, so it’s my duty to tell you that it’s also trying out serving lunch. Just as with previous experiences there, it feels more restaurant-y than expected, although you still settle your tab by going up to the bar. Walk in through the doors on the left and order some of its excellent smoke-fried, flavorful but not too saucy wings to share with a friend. The peach bourbon barbecue ones aren’t too sweet where they easily could be; I’m a fan of the truffle-agave flavor. Enjoy the free platter of housemade tortilla chips (thick, browned, crunchy, substantial enough to hold up to any dip), three salsas (a mild green, a chipotle, a classic salsa roja), queso and spicy guacamole, which feels generous and welcoming. Want to feel a little fancy? Get yourself an Argentinean take on steak frites, with sliced sirloin (just a touch too cooked but tasty) atop a mound of excellent thin french fries, all zigzagged with plenty of zippy chimichurri sauce. There are even churros for dessert, served with a cup of vanilla ice cream and another of caramel for dunking. Unlike many other bars that are bars first and restaurants second, Paloma Park doesn’t smell like stale beer. The menu remains the same from when it opens (11:45 a.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. Saturday) until it closes (late!), but there are also occasional experiments and specials, as with a recent Oktoberfest offering that included bratwurst. Draft beers are half off until 4 p.m.

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