EL PASO TACOS AND TEQUILA (255 W. Washington St., 706-898-4611): I know many of you disagree with me, but I’m still going to maintain that there’s no such thing as too many Mexican restaurants. This column covers not just one but two new ones to make the point, both of which are valuable additions to our dining scene.
El Paso Tacos and Tequila moved into the former Iron Factory location, behind Clocked, earlier this year, completely renovating the interior to the point where it’s almost unrecognizable. The previous space was dark and close. This one is light and bright and open, with nigh on 100 lamps hanging from the ceiling (including a Chihuly-esque chandelier), a gigantic mural of calaveras enjoying themselves, a large bar in the middle with frozen drink machines churning away industriously and a pretty tile floor. The patio remains lovely, with a stage set up for live performances, cute umbrellas and heaters for the cold. So far, the restaurant’s cheery vibe doesn’t seem to be packing the house, but there’s no reason it shouldn’t be. The location is good. The service is attentive. The menu does a good job being accessible without being lousy. The chips are fine, the complimentary salsa is well made, and the little dish of gratis bean dip is a nice bit of lagniappe. The prices are pretty good (often less than those at Taco Mama, up the street, in a nicer atmosphere), and the drinks are fun and not expensive. A “small” house margarita will run you about $7 and comes with a thick slice of chamoy-and-Tajin-painted pineapple on the rim. Upgrade to a medium for a little bit more and you’ll receive a 27-ounce drink (!).
Not everything on the menu is exciting. Order chicken fajitas and you’ll get chicken fajitas. The fish tacos, made with grilled and cubed fish, are OK, served with a side of pink sauce that is essentially a faintly spicy Thousand Island. Chicken enchiladas with a red mole sauce are not a wow. Head into meatier territory and you may be happier. The burrito supreme, a Tex Mex classic, is far better than it needs to be. The chile Colorado, with slow-cooked hunks of steak in a rich, spicy broth, is actively delicious. Both rice and refried beans, which come on the side of a lot of plates, are well made. If you want a show, order the tableside guacamole and take notes on your server’s lime-juicing technique. It’s the equivalent of a pedicab in terms of one’s embarrassment at being directly responsible for very visible labor, but it tastes dang good.
El Paso is open 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, until 1 a.m. Friday and until 11 p.m. Saturday. It does take-out and delivery.
TAQUERIA MORROS (3073 Danielsville Road, 706-850-1019): Do you love Taqueria Juaritos, on Jefferson Road, but wish there were another one? That’s basically what Taqueria Morros is—the latest place to operate the counter inside the King Kwik convenience store behind the Marathon station on Danielsville Road. The owner used to work at Juaritos, so the flavors are familiar, but that doesn’t make them less good. Tacos are priced between $2.49–3.49, depending on the filling, which ranges from chicken to tripe (the restaurant is not particularly vegetarian-friendly). Barbacoa is available in both beef and lamb, the latter wonderfully fatty and tender. The deshebrada (beef cooked slowly with onions and peppers) was probably my favorite I tried, both intensely flavorful and beautifully textured, but the al pastor and the carnitas were close behind. Don’t order the “big-ass torta” unless you are getting it for a party or you are up for an eating competition—literally. Finish the six pounds of food within 20 minutes, and you can win a prize. A smaller version—packed with ham, hot dogs, eggs, queso, milanesa and more, then slathered with mayo on warm grilled bread both crusty and soft—is fantastic. Just like Juaritos, Morros makes unskippable soup. Caldo de res—a collagen-rich beef stew with meat that’s practically dissolving, marrow, corn, potato, carrots and squash—will warm your insides like nobody’s business. Everything should be consumed as quickly as possible, as the leftovers lose some charm. Don’t skip the condiment bar, which includes five different salsas that don’t skimp on heat (tomatillo, creamy verde, morita, arbol and a stellar habanero that will burn your lips off), raw onion, two types of pickled onion, cucumbers, thin-sliced radishes, cilantro and limes.
There are a few tables with brightly colored serapes as tablecloths if you want to eat in rather than take out, the music is peppy, and the folks behind the counter are happy to steer you in the right direction should the array of options leave you hemming or hawing. There’s a kids’ menu, and both flan and fried ice cream for dessert, plus some aguas fresca to drink. Taqueria Morros is open 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Sunday and 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Monday.
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