BRUXIE (311 E. Broad St., 706-850-1358): One thing about this job is that sometimes, even if I’m pretty sure I’m not going to like a place, and even if I don’t particularly want to like a place, it might actually end up being kind of good. Bruxie is a chicken franchise in a space downtown that has had a lot of chain restaurant turnover in recent years. Specifically, it is a chicken and waffles franchise, and the kind of thing people get very excited about for what seems like no good reason.
I am a noted chicken hater, which is not to say that I truly hate chicken. I just find that generally it is not the kind of thing one should order to get a good idea of a restaurant’s capabilities (Peruvian places and the harissa-rubbed option at The National aside). So here’s the part where I grudgingly admit that, despite a few dings, Bruxie does quite a good job with its gimmicky chicken and waffles sandwich. The to-go packaging is enormous and seemingly wasteful, placing each sandwich in an uncrushable, vented cardboard container, but damn if it doesn’t work. Even if the stuff sits for a bit, the waffle stays in the sweet spot of crisp and soft, not melting into a soggy mess. The chicken is well fried, well seasoned and has enough breading without being dry or excessively crunchy. It’s also not too sweet. Want a bunch of syrupy stuff? It’s on the side, where you can dunk or customize without the business assuming you want your chicken sandwich to taste like a dessert. Orders get made to order, which can mean that they’re a little slower than you desire but does mean that they’re not sitting around getting worse. The place as a whole feels well run and aware of details, unlike at many previous tenants, where one was greeted with a shrug. This is not to say it couldn’t degenerate into the usual, but for now someone is focusing on quality control. The Nashville Hot version of the sandwich is not as hot as it could be, but it’s pretty tasty, with cool pickles. Don’t want chicken? You can do better, with a bacon (or sausage), egg and cheese version of the sandwich, available in whole or half size. Sides are fine, not stellar.
Serving sizes are large, with equivalent prices. The original sandwich, no sides, no upgrades, will run you nearly $13. I’m not saying it’s not worth it, just that it adds up, and that I am having a hard time with the era of the $13-15 sandwich being here with a vengeance. Bruxie is pleasant enough to eat in, with a big, kinda weird chicken-themed mural and a selection of beer to go along with its sodas and hefty milkshakes. Just want a waffle or want a sweet one? Those are your veggie options. There’s a kids menu, and if your wee ones are particular, you may want to get the nuggets unseasoned, a helpful option. You can get your sandwich on a brioche bun, but it won’t be as good.
Bruxie is open 9 a.m.–9 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday and 9 a.m.–10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. It has online ordering and does delivery as well as takeout.
ATHENS COOKS (100 Prince Ave., 706-623-3373): Speaking of $14 sandwiches, here is another place pitched at Atlanta salary wallets that is making things that are quite good to eat. This fancy cooking/baking/cocktail supply store sits next to Farm Burger in the development that used to be St. Joseph’s church. I am not in the market for a $45 set of cheese knives, but everything the store carries is high quality and lovely. Need a peppermill? Peugeot is the gold standard, and they’re here in an absolute rainbow. A good knife? Some swanky spices? A pasta-drying rack? A scissors sharpener? The store is packed with all of this and a lot more. It also has classes and serves breakfast, lunch and wine.
Whoever’s in the kitchen knows to use good bread, and the jambon beurre on Independent baguette is lovely, complete with cornichons on the side. Soups have been chilled so far, appropriate to the season, and a real highlight, whether corn or strawberry, both leaning on sharpness and acidity to offset their sweet main ingredients. Napkins are cloth. The breakfast burrito (Rock House chorizo, Oaxacan cheese, egg, peppers, onions, salsa, aioli), served all day, is particularly noteworthy, not skimping on filling but also encasing it neatly. Sandwiches might be a little pricey, but they use good ingredients, and they’re not small (while remaining light). Much like Bruxie, it seems to be turning its attention to details rather than phoning it in.
Athens Cooks does lunch 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and its café menu (coffee, pastries, the burrito, granola bowls) 8 a.m.–6 p.m. (opening at 9 a.m. on Saturdays). It could have more vegetarian options, but it is a pleasant environment, whether outside or at the big community table inside, which is big enough that you don’t have to rub elbows with strangers.
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