Just as it is said that it takes an entire village to raise a child, neither can any beer sampler-writer in his or her right mind attempt to write a column about beers of over 6 percent alcohol without assistance. Before I proceed with the results of my higher-gravity-beer search as it has unfolded thus far, I want to tip my unworn hat to those of you who have informed me of the availability of goodies that I have by now lovingly tasted for your immediate reading and ultimate sampling benefit.

As I suspected would be the case, the tide of incoming stronger brews has been a gentle, slow trickle rather than a flood. Even so, I have been unable to keep up, and find myself lagging behind considerably, with somewhere in the neighborhood of 25-30 now-available brews yet to be tasted. Many of these are in bottles large enough (750 ml) that two assistants (or more) are needed to help me finish off the contents. Just as I refuse to blind myself squinting to read indistinct old newspaper type in the name of research, neither do I wish to bludgeon my extremely cooperative liver, just in case I find myself needing its services farther down life's pike.

Here, then, is a summation of what I've so far uncovered. I begin with the first new-to-me product and progress onward.

Kalinkin Beer (Stepan Razin Brewery; St. Petersburg, Russia) The label touts Stepan Razin as the first brewery in Russia, established 1795. It strikes me that I read somewhere that this golden lager is 8.2 percent alcohol, although this fact is not printed on the label. All the writing on the cap is in Cyrillic, so that's no giveaway, either. Whatever it is, if they brew it from water from the Neva River, it's nothing short of miraculous. There isn't a load of hop character, but it's got plenty of malt. If any of you read Russian, you might want to visit the company's website at www.razin.ru to learn more.

Le Fin Du Monde [Ale On Lees] (Unibroue; Chambly, Quebec, Canada J3L 2H6) For some reason I cannot begin to fathom, Quebecois folk - especially in and around Montreal - are crazy about Belgian-style bieres. At least three microbreweries and as many, if not more, brewpubs make an array of brews that closely resemble the amazing ones found in odd nooks and crannies of Belgium, the world's greatest beer (and chocolate!) destination. Unibroue has been acquired by newish Canadian brewing giant Sleeman, with the promise that they won't tamper with Unibroue's products… they say they only want to increase their (Sleeman's) distribution, and expand Unibroue's in the meantime. Whether they will keep the promise remains to be seen, but I'm optimistic enough that I do not plan to rush out and stockpile Unibroue products lest they begin to have the character of Canadian-discount-store artificially-flavored soda. This is the only one of their portfolio of products I've re-tasted since the line arrived in Georgia; I promise to amend my findings by next column. (One Unibroue one-up special product I tried was so unusual that I remarked upon tasting it that it reminded me of a Magritte painting in a bottle.) If you look a bit, you'll uncover Maudite, Blanche de Clambly, and Trois Pistoles just for three; there are several more. Le Fin Du Monde is 9 percent alcohol and goes down so smoothly that you don't notice its potency. I'll write more about the rest of Unibroue's portfolio when I manage to re-sample everything… slowly, surely.

Ommegang Abbey-Style Dubbel (Brewery Ommegang; Cooperstown, NY) Its label proclaims it as a "rich, fruity, aromatic, Burundian brew." This isn't hype. Vanberg & DeWulf is a beer importing firm based in Cooperstown; they were the driving force behind the establishment of this brewery in 1997. The back label even gives you pouring instructions and shows what type of glass to be used. This weighs in at 8.5 percent. Drink it slowly, lovingly, even a bit erotically. Share a bottle with someone you care about (or want to care more about!). You'll thank me.

Three Philosophers Quadrupel (Br. Ommegang; as above) Talk about hard work… I polished off an entire 750 ML bottle of this mostly by myself, with a smattering of assistance from several people, in four hours. I came here to my office and crashed out in the chair "for a minute" and awoke at 11:15 the next morning purring loudly and hungry as hell. There is a marvelous "winey" character to this because it is blended with Lindemans Kriek (a Belgian cherry Lambic). The stuff is dark ruby red and intensely subtle. Do not try this one alone: share it with several people. Use wine glasses, as depicted on the label. Drink it and think deeply. It's 9.8 percent.

Duvel Belgian Golden Ale (Brouwerij Duvel Moortgat nv; B-2870 Breendonk, Belgium) The Moortgat family has brewed this since 1871. This product is so good that nothing else really compares with it. Belgian Blonde Ales are commonly sold both there and here, but this one is the "mother" of 'em all. Note that the back label gives you explicit instructions on how to pour it: a high, frothy head here does not indicate spoilage: it is highly desirable, and is due to the unique strain of yeast the family has managed to develop. The 8.5 percent alcohol content of this will sneak up on you like your worst adversary, so be forewarned! Don't let the gentle color fool you! This Belgian Golden Ale looks innocuous, but after three or four, it starts biting back. Savor this one just the way you pour it: unhurriedly. By the way, the short triple-necked bottle is very similar, if not identical, to the old-style returnables used by breweries in Pennsylvania following the repeal of Prohibition. There, such bottles are called "steinies." I don't think anyone uses them anymore, now that I think of it, but they make great homebrewing bottles.

Witkap Pater Abbey Singel Ale (Brouwerij Slaghmuylder; B-9400 Ninove, Belgium) Although this is only 6 percent by volume, it disappeared from Georgia's shelves in the last purge of "higher than legal" brews. It has reappeared. This is probably the best "Enkel" made in Belgium today. (When I have more time and space, subsequently, I'll explain these styles for you.)

Castelain Blond Biere de Garde (Brasserie Benifontaine; F-62410 France) Farmhouse ales are traditionally made in the northernmost areas of France. This one is no exception: it comes from the Nord-Pas De Calais region. The keynote here is the pronouncedly "grassy" flavor, which you will notice immediately. This is one of several such ales we are lucky enough to be able to obtain; I will review each of the others in turn… be patient. This comes in a corked 750 ML bottle and weighs in at 6.4 percent.

Caracole Belgian Amber Ale (Br. Caracole; Falmignoul, Belgium) Just tonight I managed to sample this one downtown. It reminded me of a Belgian Blonde, but with some sort of a twist that I couldn't quite get a handle on drinking it by myself and for the first time. It reminded me of the French farmhouse ales somewhat, but I'm gonna be forced to drink this one again (suffer then, I must) - and hopefully with someone cognizant of its style - to have a better idea of how to describe it. It's deceptively light-tasting for its 8 percent volume.

Dogwood Youngblood's Imperial Porter (Dogwood; Atlanta, GA 30318) From what once was Route 1, Bolton, Georgia 30018 comes this, my final offering this go-round… and a great way to end the column it is! Dogwood appears to have been the first Atlanta microbrewery to release anything over 6 percent. Number 1 in the company's BrewMaster's Series, this beverage is described by brewer Jordan Fleetwood as "not for the faint of heart," and I am compelled to agree. I like to have cried for joy upon tasting it, and will be deeply saddened when there is no more of it. Our sample was brought directly from the brewery to us with legal dispensation; it will soon be available in 650 ML bottles and on draught in a handful of outlets. I am very pleased to be able to report on it here. You nearly have to chew it; it reminds me of something akin to homemade devil's food cookies in a bottle.

As soon as I manage to wade my way through enough more brews to produce another column, it will appear. Bear with me as I take it slowly; someone remarked the other day that drinking all these strong beers was making me look more and more like Homer Simpson, referring to the episode of "The Simpsons" when Homer decides to become so fat that he can go on disability. That is one perk I do not want, dear folks. Give me a couple or three more weeks and more brew news you can use will ooze forth. Until then, take these stronger beers more slowly than usual, enjoy them with friends, use a designated driver if necessary, and - above all - enjoy! Prosit!
William Orten Carlton William Orten Carlton is, among other things, Flagpole's beer editor.