Pasta, Prosecco and Pizza

originally published July 16, 2008

By Any Other Name: After some months, it was still not clear what the name of the restaurant in the Bottleworks that once upon a time went by Bischero and was bought by new folks a little while ago actually was. Was it 237 Prince? Was it still Bischero? It's actually 237 Prince Woodfire Grill, that gives one the location and a moniker by which to address it.

When it first reopened for lunch, it seemed to have an identity crisis, and while the menu has firmed up a little, the restaurant still has some issues. That doesn’t mean the kitchen can’t execute well in areas. The fried calamari, for example, are very nicely done, neither overbattered nor overcooked. A salad of frisée, apple, shaved Parmesan and speck is a lovely, simple, fresh thing. The pizzas, which once upon a time were more like flatbreads (nor could you figure out what would arrive on your table from the descriptions), have returned to being pizzas, and they’re pretty good, high-end creations, if a little chewy in the crust. But it’s certainly hard to pay $16 for one when Your Pie is doing almost comparable quality, also in a fancy oven, over on Alps Road. Service has improved, too, but for this price range, one would still hope for better. Bar staff is friendly and notices small details, like a spot on a glass, but seems at a loss when asked for a recommendation.

The pasta, like most everything else, needs salt, although there are some softly flavored wild mushrooms in one sauce that could easily be overwhelmed. The ingredients are good, but ingredients are only part of the equation. It’s hard for a restaurant in this town to decide on a market. Upscale is wonderful and no doubt more fulfilling for a chef, but it comes with higher expectations and, sadly, an empty restaurant at times, often in the summer. It’s a complicated balancing act, and 237 Prince needs to reach a little harder if it’s going to be seen as fulfilling at the pricepoint it’s set. Would I go back? Sure. Nothing was bad. It’s a local business with a good location and building and plenty of parking. It has a nice atmosphere and a great patio for outdoor dining. The least expensive wines on the list aren’t plonk. I would happily munch on the appetizers while drinking a prosecco. But the cost-benefit equation doesn’t add up 100 percent of the time for me.

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To Market: There are a number of places around town where the harried homemaker can stop in and pick up a pre-made casserole for heating and eating later that day. Lindsey’s Culinary Market (1238-B Prince Ave., next to Clarke Paint and Supply) is one I had meant to visit for quite a while; only recently did the opportunity present itself. Lindsey’s does both lunch (with surprisingly pricey sandwiches) and breakfast, as well as catering for a number of different types of special events, but the reason most folks would stop in is to take advantage of the seriously stocked freezer. A meat lasagna has mushy noodles, but a nice, herby flavor. Creamy mushroom soup is almost too simple to eat by itself, but it, like everything else, tastes of real ingredients, and indeed, Lindsey’s proudly uses local produce whenever possible.

The pulled pork has a great rub, but the fibers of the meat haven’t quite submitted to the necessary slow heat, leading to excessive chewiness. A watermelon ice, which seems to consist of only watermelon and ice, blended and then frozen, is an awesome, healthy treat. And the beautiful little rosemary cookies in a basket next to the cash register have a delicate texture and flavor. The use of an oven in this day and age for reheating may make you impatient, but the stuff from Lindsey’s could easily pass for homemade. Lindsey’s Culinary Market is open until 6 p.m., takes credit cards, and is staffed by folks who will cheerfully show off their latest food projects and are more than happy to help with just about anything you might need.

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WHAT UP? The building in front of Carmike Cinema on Lexington Road that most recently contained Fruit Glacier Water Ice Company is once again up for lease. Kelly’s Jamaican is opening another location in the former Steverino’s on Lumpkin, in Five Points. Keba Spitfire Grill, coming soon to the Georgetown Shopping Center on the Eastside, is, in fact, the franchise name for Uncle Otto’s, AKA Achim’s K-Bob.

Hillary Brown