Shiny, Happy And All You Can Eat

originally published March 5, 2008

Shine On: The brand-new Jewel’s Buffet All You Can Eat (468 North Ave., in the Athens Plaza shopping center, behind Hardee’s, 706-338-7472) is a bit difficult to find, as it’s lacking a sign pasted up high on the exterior. The space was previously a Salvation Army, and it retains all the charm of that enterprise, being essentially a huge, mostly empty room. Slices of cake (lemon and chocolate, both unexciting) are individually Saran-wrapped on paper plates, and beverages (tea, Crystal Light raspberry lemonade or a mix of both; no soft drinks) sit to the left of the tables. It might seem like only one table of options isn’t enough for an all-you-can-eat buffet, but an impressive array resides therein: fried chicken, catfish, baked chicken, beef ribs (sadly mostly meatless), macaroni and cheese, stewed okra and tomatoes (a really good dish), mushy lima beans, black-eyed peas, greens, fried corn, green beans and more. Even when there are quibbles with the execution of various items - the mac and cheese doesn’t cohere and needs more cheese; the beans and peas have been cooked too long - nothing tastes as though it came from a can. Each offering has been home cooked, and whoever is behind it all has a commendably adventurous spirit when it comes to spices and herbs. Sometimes tasting turns into a guessing game (is that cumin?), but it’s nice to have something a little different from the same old same old. Jewel’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (until 7 p.m.) most days and is closed Saturday.

They've Got Wood: If I’d known the still relatively new Mellow Mushroom at 320 E. Clayton Street downtown (706-613-0892) was jam-packed with weird, giant wood sculptures (a mushroom cop, a mushroom football player, a bulldog Buddha at the entrance and an Uncle Sam bust sizable enough for parade use), maybe I would have ventured inside sooner to experience the oddness, which also includes a large mural featuring our own Michael Stipe hoisting a brew.The menu does differ these days from the former Broad Street and Five Points locations, which separated from the franchise over the desire to expand orderable options, and even the pizza is a little different - a less puffy and floury crust, spicier tomato sauce. Still, it’s best to stick with the classics if you’re planning on a visit or ordering take-out. Mellow Mushroom still offers an array of toppings, including many that are vegetarian, and the pretzels, made from the same dough as the pizza crust, are still a tasty hot appetizer with a beer (they have a nice selection of those, too).The sandwiches, while they also include many a meat-free item, are just a lot less predictable. One made with tempeh was fine, if a bit sprout-heavy, and nearly the same sandwich, made with tofu, was less than ideal. All that said, the space is still one of the loveliest in Athens, with those huge windows to watch folks walk by, and the pizza ranks higher rather than lower in the Athens pantheon.

What Up?: Also open in the Athens Plaza shopping center on North Ave. is a Mexican restaurant called Paizano’s. Harry’s Gospel Buffet, serving breakfast, lunch and music with your dinner, is open in Winder; further details can be found at www.harrysgospelbuffet.com. At long last, Little Italy, on Lumpkin St. downtown, has a credit card machine! No more digging through your pockets. And Trappeze will be adding food to its phenomenal selection of beers. Emilee Greer, of The Daily Neighborhood Deli, was victorious at this year’s Red Clay Chef competition at Taste of Athens over Antonio Spadea of La Dolce Vita. Le Maison Bleu came away with the award for best food vendor, while Terrapin snagged best beverage vendor and The Foundry Park Inn & Spa yoinked the People’s Choice. If you missed the event, Grady College of Journalism students spent the evening filming, and the product of their hard work will be available on DVD at some point.

Hillary Brown

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