Grub Notes

Ragin’ Cajun

originally published April 7, 2004

CAFFEINE + LAGNIAPPE. I was disappointed when Go Coffee closed. A lot of us were. Its cool style fit well with its hip Bottleworks location. But it wasn't fair of me not to make it over to its replacement, Thibodeaux's Cajun Coffee Café, sooner than I did. I thought, "Don't we already have more Cajun restaurants than a town this size is meant to?" But I'm able to admit when I'm wrong. I really enjoyed Thibodeaux's, from its cute atmosphere

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(orange booths, brown walls, lots of family photos) to its welcoming owners/ staff (there's a lot of conversation flowing between the counter and the kitchen) and, of course, its food. One good way to judge a restaurant is by how well they do something as simple as grilled cheese, and the "cheese melt on French bread," with Provolone, Swiss, Muenster, lettuce, oil and vinegar, spices and plenty of mayo, is gooey and superlative, requiring plenty of napkins and provoking happy "mmm" noises. There's a different lunch special for each day of the week (excepting Sundays, when they're closed), and Thursday's gumbo is quite tasty. The food menu is small, but you can easily eat lunch for less than $5, and the coffee beverages are brewed from Atlanta-roasted beans. I believe pralines are available in the dessert case at times. Hours, as mentioned in the last column, are from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

CITY LIFE. From time to time, there has been a convenience store located downtown, in the space by Insomnia and Po' Boys, where one could pick up an overpriced box of Kraft Cheese and Macaroni for an evening meal, a place that one could walk to without effort or even having to plan to venture in that direction. Midtown Market is indeed that, but it's a bit more, too. You may have noticed a table of apples sunning themselves outside of late, and there is more produce inside, as well as bread and pastries from Big City, deli meats and cheeses, pre-made sandwiches in the case and a selection of Atkins-approved products for the carbophobic. That is to say, you could purchase the ingredients of a non-cheese-powder-based meal without sacrificing precious time to a full-blown grocery store trip. They also have a frequent shopper card that gives one a dollar back for every ten spent. This column approves of anything that can be easily reached on the bus or on foot and hopes Midtown Market sticks around a good while.

OPEN. Unless something throws a major wrench into the works (hey, it happened with Thomas Keller's New York debut), Mallory's should be open by the time this column runs. I ducked in the other day to see the place fully furnished and grabbed one of the menus by the door. It appears the cuisine is largely Italian and French, with a nod here and there to Spain and Greece, and the initial focus is Spring/ Summery. The spinach melon salad, orzo and vegetable pasta (orzo is a tiny, grain-shaped pasta, bigger than couscous, but no larger than the nail of one's pinky), and grilled venison chop are all appealing. Further details as they come to light.

VARIED. Roly Poly, the wrap franchise on East Clayton downtown, has changed owners, repainted and added soups and low-carb tortillas. I've always been a fan of the build-your-own option (tell them to grill it) and have been assured that the once-upon-a-time best wrap ever, the Reuben special they ran some years back, will be reappearing from time to time.

COMING SOON. The Cobbham Café should open in approximately a month in the former location of Fish Net, which still is recognizably an ex-KFC building, on the stretch of Milledge between Broad and Prince. Right across the street from The Varsity, it's the project of the manager of that venerable chili dog palace and will offer a wide-ranging neighborhood café kind of menu. Doc Chey's has now officially announced its tenancy in the other half of the Michael Brothers building with giant yellow signs proclaiming "Peace, Love, Noodles" (a life philosophy if I ever heard one) in the windows. Construction on the interior continues. The Athens Seafood Company, retailing piscine delights, should be open on Baxter by Dixon's some time this summer. Could Athens possibly have not one, but two places to buy fresh seafood other than the grocery store? If The Fish Market on Oconee St. is still happening, then yes. No complaints here.

Hillary Brown

I'll take gossip, hearsay, whatever: food@flagpole.com.

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